The Salton Sea

A large inland lake located in the desert of southeastern California within the low-lying Salton Trough.

The Salton Sea is one of the most unusual geographic features in the United States, a large inland lake located in the desert of southeastern California within the low-lying Salton Trough. Today it appears to be a natural lake, but in reality it was accidentally created in 1905 when floodwaters from the Colorado River broke through

irrigation canals and poured unchecked into the desert basin for nearly two years. The basin itself lies more than 200 feet below sea level and had periodically filled with water for thousands of years whenever the Colorado River changed course, forming ancient lakes long before modern settlement.

When engineers finally diverted the river back to its channel in 1907, the accidental lake remained behind, stretching roughly thirty-five miles long and fifteen miles wide. In its early decades the Salton Sea became a surprising oasis in the desert, attracting fish, birds, and tourists who came to fish, swim,

and boat in what promoters hoped would become the “Palm Springs of the 1950s.” During the mid-twentieth century the lake indeed flourished as a recreation destination. Developers built resorts, yacht clubs, and vacation homes along its shores, and fishing tournaments attracted visitors from across Southern California.

and boat in what promoters hoped would become the “Palm Springs of the 1950s.” During the mid-twentieth century the lake indeed flourished as a recreation destination. Developers built resorts, yacht clubs, and vacation homes along its shores, and fishing tournaments attracted visitors from across Southern California.

However, the Salton Sea had no natural outlet, meaning water could only leave through evaporation. Agricultural runoff from surrounding farms steadily flowed into the lake, bringing with it fertilizers, salts, and other chemicals. As water evaporated under the desert sun, the salinity increased until it eventually surpassed that of the Pacific Ocean.

This rising salinity, combined with pollution and declining water levels, led to repeated fish die-offs and bird mortality events beginning in the late twentieth century. The once glamorous shoreline gradually fell into decline as tourism vanished, leaving behind abandoned buildings, crumbling marinas, and eerie reminders of the region’s failed resort dreams.

One of the most famous settlements along the eastern shore of the Salton Sea is Bombay Beach, a small community that once thrived as a fishing and vacation destination during the 1950s and 1960s. At its peak, Bombay Beach had restaurants, trailer parks, and vacation homes filled with anglers hoping to catch corvina

and other fish species introduced to the lake. As environmental conditions deteriorated and the waterline receded, the town’s population shrank dramatically. Many houses were abandoned, streets flooded and dried repeatedly, and the shoreline retreated hundreds of feet. In recent years, however, Bombay Beach has experienced an unusual revival as a haven for artists and experimental thinkers who are drawn to the haunting desert landscape.

Art installations, sculptural debris, and surreal outdoor galleries now dot the community, turning it into a kind of open-air creative laboratory. This rebirth is celebrated annually by the Bombay Beach Biennale, an unconventional arts festival that mixes performance art, music, and sculpture with

the stark backdrop of the decaying lakeshore. A few miles south of the sea stands one of the most eccentric and colorful landmarks in the American desert, Salvation Mountain. This massive hillside sculpture was created almost entirely by hand by artist and religious visionary Leonard Knight. Beginning in the mid-1980s,

Knight spent decades shaping the hill with adobe, straw, and layers upon layers of brightly painted latex paint. The mountain is covered with Christian messages, biblical quotations, flowers, and rainbows, all centered around the phrase “God Is Love.” Rising roughly fifty feet high and

stretching over a hundred feet long, Salvation Mountain became one of the most recognizable works of American folk art and was eventually preserved as a cultural landmark. Visitors from around the world come to walk its painted paths and see its adjoining structures, including a painted “museum” made from

hay bales and salvaged materials. The site reflects Knight’s deeply personal faith as well as the broader tradition of outsider art that thrives in remote and unconventional environments. Just beyond Salvation Mountain lies the unconventional desert community known as Slab City, often described as the “last free place in America.”

The name comes from the concrete slabs that remain from the former Camp Dunlap, a World War II training facility abandoned after the war. When the military dismantled the base, only the foundations were left behind, and over time squatters, snowbirds, artists, and free spirits began camping on the slabs. Unlike most communities, Slab City has no official

government, utilities, or formal infrastructure. Residents generate electricity through solar panels or generators, haul in water, and construct homes from salvaged materials. During the winter months, thousands of seasonal residents arrive in recreational vehicles, creating a temporary desert town filled with artists, musicians, and travelers.

The community has developed its own landmarks, including open-air performance spaces, sculpture gardens, and improvised neighborhoods. The Salton Sea region as a whole has become a symbol of both environmental warning and cultural resilience. Ecologists worry that as the sea shrinks,

exposed lakebed dust containing agricultural chemicals could pose serious air-quality risks to nearby communities. Governments and environmental groups have proposed restoration projects, including wetlands and habitat zones, but the scale of the problem is immense.

At the same time, the strange beauty of the landscape has inspired photographers, filmmakers, and writers who see in the Salton Sea a uniquely American story of ambition, environmental consequence, and unexpected creativity. From the decaying resort ruins of Bombay Beach to the painted devotion of Salvation Mountain and the improvised freedom of Slab City, the area represents a desert crossroads where environmental history, outsider art, and alternative lifestyles converge in one of the most surreal landscapes in the United States.

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Author: Doyle

I was born in Atlanta, moved to Alpharetta at 4, lived there for 53 years and moved to Decatur in 2016. I've worked at such places as Richway, North Fulton Medical Center, Management Science America (Computer Tech/Project Manager) and Stacy's Compounding Pharmacy (Pharmacy Tech).

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